Gangtok

Sikkim packs an extraordinary amount into a small state: Kanchenjunga, the world's third-highest mountain, on the skyline; glacial lakes at nearly 3,800 metres; monasteries among the pines; and some of the friendliest, cleanest towns in the Himalaya. Gangtok, the capital, is built along a ridge with views across the valleys, and its pedestrian-only MG Marg is one of the most pleasant town centres in India.

Our Sikkim trips spend three nights in Gangtok with a permit-run excursion to Tsomgo Lake, a sacred glacial lake often frozen in winter, and the Baba Harbhajan Singh Mandir along the old road towards Nathu La. In Gangtok you visit Rumtek Monastery, the Enchey Monastery, the Namgyal Institute of Tibetology and the viewpoints at Tashi and Ganesh Tok, with a ropeway ride over the town. The trip then crosses to West Sikkim for two nights in Pelling, where the sun rises straight onto Kanchenjunga. Here you explore the 17th-century Pemayangtse Monastery, the ruins of Rabdentse, the sacred Khecheopalri Lake and the glass skywalk at the Chenrezig statue. Many travellers add Darjeeling for the toy train and tea gardens on the way in or out.

Sikkim suits families, honeymooners, senior citizens and nature lovers who want the Himalaya without extreme altitude, although Tsomgo Lake and Nathu La still demand care. Permits are needed for Tsomgo and Nathu La and are arranged through registered agents, so carry ID and photographs. March to May brings rhododendrons in bloom, and October to December offers the clearest mountain views. The state is plastic-conscious and proud of its environment, so travel lightly and respectfully.